Swedish fashion house Acne débuted in Paris for this season's collection with its signature minimalist urban preppy silhouettes, this time inspired by youth and focusing on suits. It translated into a series of overcoats paired with suit pants, as well as the 2-piecers themselves. The idea of a man's first suit is one that's been gripping other designers during this very sartorial season -Kris van Assche, for example, was mulling it too. It's also good business, especially at Acne's relatively modest price point : the suit revolution of the past few years has trickled down to the younger generation and it's labels like Acne to which they'll turn. The Acne cut is youthful, with slightly cropped pants and low-buttoning jackets in different styles (single- and double-breasteds, standard lapels and shawl collars), all in Italian bonded wool. The hitch is that, on the runway at least, they can look a little flat, even when pepped up by accents of raspberry, royal blue, or teal. "It's the way they dress", creative director Jonny Johansson said of his clientèle. "It's that moment when you're not grown up and at the same time, not a kid. The kind of sexual energy that brings". Keep looking down, to the boys' shiny patent Chelsea boots, and you could get a better sense of the signature Acne charge.
