Yigal Azrouël is one of a handful of New York-based menswear designers who took their show on the road this season. He decided to show in Paris at Maison de la Chimie because he felt his style lends itself to a more European aesthetics, not to mention he feels building the brand awareness in Europe is very important. One of America's contributions to the world of style is the elevation of the casual, and it's this more slouching energy that this season's collection manifests. That makes for clothes that are quite wearable, and this offering, with its introduction to the global scene of both YA staples (the slightly drop-crotch tapered pant, the oversize layering pieces) and some sharp new suiting, was especially shopper-friendly. "The whole concept is a guy who's very artistic, who has a style", Mr Azrouël explained. "He's not someone who follows a trend". Though the designer's own takes on some key pieces, like the cable-knit sweater, were among the best pieces here. The commitment to the casual caused the show's energy to flag in places. The designer said one of his main reference points was Jean-Michel Basquiat. That would make for a fine model. Quite a dose of New York cool to Paris. The collection aimed to produce the illusion of layering by using signature linear silhouettes and combinations of rich textures. Distinct elements like reverse construction combined with unique stitching details on knitwear added dimension with a sophisticated earthy color palette, including coal, iron and ash with accents of indigo and mulberry. Precise tailoring paired with the effect of artistic layering was conveyed with a modern sense of style and sensibility.
