Designer duo Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler débuted the season’s collection under the W Hotel’s Fashion Next Program, which recognizes and hosts a selection of designers’ presentations during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Rochambeau transformed The Box at Lincoln Center into a natural verdant grove, complete with a mulch-covered ground and low hanging mossy branches. This season's collection was inspired by the mythology behind our holidays. Christmas and the story of Santa Claus has roots in pre-Christian pagan mythology and is steeped in dark primitive folklore and dark imagery of a savage 12 night hunt through the heavens. And the collection explores the myth through naturalistic textures; weathered skins, rich furs, and warm wools weaves / knits. The construction is architectural and represents both cold modern structure a well as pagan runic symbolism in a primarily monochromatic palette. As we’ve seen from past seasons, Rochambeau prêt-à-porter is ultimately inspired by the attitude, individuality and disaffected style of the wearer. As described by the designers, "It’s about the juxtaposition of a man who cares deeply about clothes but once he is wearing something, he completely forgets about it as it fuses with his natural self". Camouflaged by his surroundings : it's exactly what the designers had in mind when creating this season’s viewing experience. Staying true to their nonchalant aesthetics, the duo's offering is composed of relaxed silhouettes and a mixture of disheveled layers and precisely tailored suiting executed through a neutral color palette of black and gray accented with deep garnet. The brand’s signature collarless blazers are still there, some trimmed with leather lapels, others paired with leather neckband jersey shirts as an alternative to the traditional collar. Rochambeau explored outerwear with unique designs in the form of a buttery triple hide bomber jacket, collapsed lapel and high collared coats, and overlapped coat with a contrasting panel closure and detachable scarf. Casually cool looks included slouchy high-necked henley sweaters, cardigans layered over placket panel hoodies, and layered jersey tees in bias cut and crew neck styles. Pleat seamed pants and the long, layered short pants offered a bit a familiarity, while the cropped harem and high-waisted drop crotch styles are a welcome departure from the expected. Styled with urban austerity, accessories included lace-up boots, wide-brimmed hats, and fringed leather cross body pouches. Has the future of menswear gone mad ? Looking at this collection, it’s simply gone cult ! Rochambeau's winning strategy is strikingly obvious; Joshua Cooper & Laurence Chandler are still holding onto something that other brands have long-forgotten : how to have fun. Totally wild !
