Senad Hoyer by Peter Muntanion
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MORPHOSIS
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Model : Lucas Bernardini (part 1)
Born on July 2, 1991 in São Paulo, Brazilian model Lucas Bernardini started his career only two years ago. But he already built up quite a significant porfolio, featuring in a large number of campaigns and fashion magazines. Morphosis offers you today a hotchpotch of pictures. Stay tuned for more of Lucas Bernardini next week !
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Facetasm
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Boomerang
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Sunday boy du jour : Omar
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Nuno Gama -video
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Nuno Gama
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Alexandre Plokhov -videos
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Alexandre Plokhov
"It feels nice to do a show where I'm the boss", said Alexandre Plokhov, in an oblique reference to the seasons he spent working on Versace's menswear. Something else that referred back to his time with the Italian label : the absolute rejection of color in his own collection. A gothic darkness ruled. Mr Plokhov called his collection "a stylistic fan letter" to musicians Glenn Danzig and Andrew Eldritch, front men of iconic goth bands Misfits and Sisters of Mercy, but he wouldn't brook connotations of Goth for his funereal designs. "I prefer to think of them as heroic", he insisted. He'd picked a very particular tribe of boys to underscore that fact : different ethnicities yet all sharing the same bruised, broken-nosed survivalist look. Alexandre Plokhov's reservations about Goth aside, it's one youth cult that can boast it has kept its doomy integrity intact in the face of time and reason. Likewise, his clothes. Unimpeachably true to the intention of their creator but simultaneously in danger of being superfluous to needs. Consider his tip of the cap to Eldritch -"a maniacal, visceral, and complex idea of masculinity"- and decide whether that is something that ticks your boxes, especially when it translated as an elongated apron/tuxedo vest over a floor-length skirt, or an overcoat in a mohair dipped in acid so that it had a matted oily feel ("like dirty hair", stated Mr P appreciatively). During his Versace period, the designer acquired an appreciation of Italian craftsmanship. His clothes are produced in the Veneto, and there was an agreeable sharpness to the tailoring of several formal jackets. But the collection as a whole was weighed down by its glowering obsessiveness. "Eldritch" was one of horrormeister HP Lovecraft's favorite adjectives to describe creeping dread. The novelist may not be the best go-to reference for a fashion designer in these troubled times, yet this offering looks awesome.
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Numéro Homme #24 (part 3) Julien Sabaud (part 5)
"Huis clos " ('In camera') is the title of this editorial by Serge Girardi featuring Julien Sabaud groomed by Hugo Villard & Seb Bascle, shot by Karl Lagerfeld and retouched by Ludovic Dhardivillé for the current issue of French fash mag Numéro Homme.
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Numéro Homme #24 (part 2)
"Mutual core" is the title of this edit by Jean-Michel Clerc featuring Guerrino Santulliana and Rutger Schoone groomed by Hugo Villard & Laurent Mole, shot by Pierre Debusschere and retouched by Ismaël Mounim for the current issue of French fash mag Numéro Homme.
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Charlee Drew - "You did me a favour"
After touring with UK rapper Skepta for the past year and preparing his EP 'You did me a favour', Leicester-born London-based artist Charlee Drew has been gaining a lot of momentum and is now ready to make an impact. His distinct Brit sound and sun-drenched melodies charmed even the coldest hearts. About the spelling of his name, it's not a way to make himself stand out from the rest, but an attempt to tackle the local accent : "I live in Leicester and people tend to call me Char-leh. So I figured that if I spelt it Char-lee, people would not be able to !". His music could be described as pop with a hint of urban, which is evident in this video for his début single (even though he actually released a previous single, "Sugar rush", in 2010). "Bringing me down" is the second title from the EP. Nothing beats, emotive rawness coupled with the full concentration of this acoustic presentation centered purely on the voice. Charlee is definitely a name to remember.
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Flower power (Glass of Fashion) James Cater (part 3)
"The new romantics" is the title of this shoot featuring James Cater styled by Ben Chin, groomed by Angel Gwee and shot by Chuck Reyes for August Man Singapore.
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Fernando Cabral (part 3) by Mark Drew
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Tyler James (part 1) by Tom Cullis
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Ákos Sógor by Szilveszter Makó
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Homme fatal : Broderick Hunter by Cliff Watts
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Piotr Drżał
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Richard Chai Love
Inspired by a Bruce Davidson subway photograph of "a fragile-looking man" wearing a sturdy chesterfield coat, Richard Chai's mantra was "handsome femininity". That's certainly a return to roots, as boys-for-girls is a longtime fascination of his. Sure enough, the collection's biggest impact was sartorial -a fantastic navy and charcoal striped tweed, which he developed with an Italian mill. It fell prey to awkward proportions in the suit that was the first look out, but was a smart and polished winner in nearly every other iteration. Even as that crispness intentionally gave way to the abstraction of Richard Chai's signature prints and a Lurex striped wool, the sense of believability didn't flag. Instead the designer concentrated on refinement and kept his penchant for complex layers in check. He was straightforward about a desire for the straightforward. "It's not about tricks for the show", he stated. "I want it to be clean and crisp, accessible and believable". That read as self-admonishment for experiments past, but hey, what would fashion be without a gamble here and there ? His big news of late is that he's the new creative director of venerable outdoor-gear label Filson, whom he had approached in order to collaborate on men's outerwear. There was a woodsy element to the womenswear, but it was in the men's that it really took shape. For that matter, the menswear also seemed to soak up most of the melancholy of the soundtrack's "How soon is now ?" by The Smiths. In their gawky cropped pants, rubber-soled Palladium high-tops, and city/country hybrids like a funnel-neck nylon windbreaker under a checked suit, the boys looked like young runaways trying to hitch a ride out of the provinces to spite the world. Goodness knows that oversize Filson duffel backpack is tailor-made for such a venture.
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Numéro Homme #24 (part 5)
"Nomades " is the title of this edit by Serge Girardi featuring Simon Sabbah, Scott Bourne, Patrick Petitjean, Willy Cartier and Liuk Bass groomed by Adrien Pinault & Alexandry Costa, shot by Jean-Baptiste Mondino and retouched by Stéphane Virlogeux for the current issue of French fash mag Numéro Homme.
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